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Cracked Qtr
Quarter Crack on Flaired foot
Hoof flares are caused by a weakening of the attachments (laminae) of the hoof wall to the coffin bone inside the foot. In wild horses the separation that occurs at the lower part of the wall allows that portion of the wall to break off so their hooves don't grow too long in soft footing. Horses in the wild live on rocky soil and rarely have hoof flares because constant travel over rough ground (up to 25 miles a day) keeps the hoof worn off at the correct length. Most domesticated horses don't live on such rocky soil but, even so, there is no reason that, with proper trimming and management, they should suffer from hoof flares.
To determine if your horse has hoof flares run a straight edge from the coronary band to the ground surface of the foot and move this edge all the way around the hoof. There should be no space between the straight edge and the hoof wall.
MECHANICAL CAUSES
Constant Shoeing: The wall of the horse's hoof was never meant to support the horse's entire body weight. The frog, bars, and sole are all supposed to bear weight as the horse steps over with each foot. In other words, when the foot is off the ground the wall is the longest part of the foot but when the foot is on the ground and bearing weight the frog, bars and sole compress to the ground and help support the horse. This natural hoof function is not possible if the horse is wearing a shoe and moving on hard ground. When a horse is shod and the horse is walking on hard ground, the hoof wall becomes the only part of the hoof that comes in contact with the ground and supports the horse's entire weight. If the horse constantly wears shoes, over time the coffin bone will have a tendency to sink inside the hoof capsule and the weakened wall will become more flared. If your horse must be shod, you should remove his shoes for at least several months each year so his hooves can recover from the time spent in shoes.
Obesity: An overweight horse or a horse with a large body but small feet will tend to have trouble with hoof flares because of the excess weight that has to be carried over such a small area. The overtaxed laminae weaken and stretch, causing flares. Dieting and increased exercise are the obvious answers for the overweight horse but the small-footed horse will have to be managed with greater care. If you have a small-footed horse you will need to pay close attention to his diet and be sure that hoof flares are trimmed off at each trimming.
Too Long Between Trims or Shoeings: In the wild hoof flares are nature's way of breaking off excessive hoof wall. In other words, the hoof wall is weaker where the hoof flares and tends to break off as the horse travels over hard, rocky soil. Without this mechanism, the wild horse would end up extremely long flared hooves and would not be able to run from predators. Fortunately, wild horses constantly wear their hooves down with lengthy daily travel. Domestic horses are not as fortunate. Since most domestic horses live on soft ground and don't travel as much as wild horses, they don't have a chance to wear their hooves down daily, a little at a time. Instead, the domesticated horse's hooves grow flares, which then break off in large chunks. This uneven wear makes it hard to shoe the horse or balance the hoof for even weight-bearing. The best way to avoid flares caused by hoof overgrowth is to shoe your horse at regular intervals. If your horse is barefoot keep a roll on the edge of the hoof wall to allow for easy breakover.
NUTRITIONAL CAUSES
Deficiencies or Imbalances: Horses need adequate minerals in the correct balance to have healthy hooves. Sulfur is especially important because it is a disulfide bond that holds the hoof laminae to the coffin bone. If your horse suffers from poor hoof quality it is important to analyze the nutritional content of your hay before adding expensive supplements. If analyzing your hay is not an option then consider giving your horse a food-based supplement such as blue-green algae, which provides a very broad range of trace minerals in a balanced form that your horse can easily assimilate. Biotin is another nutrient that is important for hoof health but if your horse has plenty of beneficial bacteria in his gut, these bacteria produce will produce sufficient biotin. It is better to support your horse's good gut bacteria by feeding pre- or pro-biotics than feeding biotin because the healthy bacteria does so much more for your horse, including keeping his immune system strong.
Overfeeding: Besides making your horse fat, giving your horse too much feed that is high in starch will cause a shift in the bacterial population in your horse's hindgut (or cecum). Normally the cecum is designed to digest only fiber but if undigested starch makes it past the small intestine into the hindgut, the fiber-digesting bacteria that live in the cecum die off and the starch-digesting bacteria take over. This shift can be devastating to your horse because it causes toxins to be released into his bloodstream that, in turn, cause an enzyme to be released that breaks down the laminae in the hoof wall.
Well-known hoof expert Pete Ramey believes that this is nature's way of allowing excessively long hoof walls to break off easily if the wild horse happens to move into a grazing situation with high sugar content forage. In the wild horse this bounty would be a temporary situation but with domesticated horses long-term high starch or sugar diets can cause chronic hoof problems that may eventually progress to laminitis.
HOOF WALL INFECTIONS
Many types of fungus and bacteria have been blamed for hoof wall separation or "white line" disease but in reality, these pathogens are probably simply taking advantage of the environment created in the foot when the hoof wall attachments become weak from another cause. Once the pathogen is in place, however, to promote healthy hoof growth you may need to treat your horse's hooves even after the underlying cause has been corrected. Very minor hoof wall infections respond to a topical mix of 1-ounce tea tree oil diluted in 16 ounces of apple cider vinegar. Deeper infections must be treated more aggressively. The best product I have found for persistent white line infections is White Lightning. This product is applied under a wrap or within an airtight soaking boot and it releases a chlorine gas that penetrates deep into the hoof tissue. It does not affect healthy tissue and the treatment should be done once a week until healthy hoof attachments have grown all the way down and there is no separation or stretching showing in the white line. Horses that don't respond to treatment for hoof infections and careful management may have a weak immune system and treatment will need to be focused there to see results.
HOW TO TRIM HOOF FLARES
If your horse does have hoof flares, I recommend trimming them aggressively. When I trim a horse with hoof flares, I rasp from the front of the hoof wall until I no longer have any space showing when I run my straight edge around the hoof. This may remove enough wall that shoeing will not be possible and the horse may need boots or pea gravel footing to be comfortable.
Some trimmers are not going to want to do this but I feel it is the fastest way to grow out a healthy hoof as any flare that is left in place will tend to drag the new hoof growing down away from the bone. The best plan is to avoid hoof flares and with proper management of the hoof, diet, and immune system they should never be a problem.
Madalyn Ward, DVM, owns Bear Creek Veterinary Clinic in Austin, Texas. She is certified in Veterinary Homeopathy and Equine Osteopathy. Memberships include the American Veterinary Medical Association, American Association of Equine Practitioners, American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, Texas Veterinary Medical Association and the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy. She has authored several books and publishes the monthly newsletter, “Holistic Horsekeeping.” www.holistichorsekeeping.com , www.yourhorsebook.com
